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If you're a fan of these elegant burgundies, here's an overview of Domaine Deni Mortet.
Historically, Charles Mortet started in 1956 with one hectare of vines. When Denis took over in 1992, the estate consisted of 4.5 hectares in the communes of Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny and Vougeot. In 1993, Denis and Laurence, his wife, took over an estate of 4 hectares including plots of Premier Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, village plots located in En Motrot, Au Vellé and En Champs and also a plot in Marsannay at a locality. The Longeroies. In 1997, they bought a plot located in En Combe du Dessus in Gevrey-Chambertin; in 1999 a plot of Chambertin Grand Cru and in 2000 a few plots including En Derée village and a few Premier Cru plots. Today, Laurence, Arnaud and Clémence work around a hundred plots on a vineyard stretching from Daix, on the Dijon plateau, to Vougeot.
Firstly, the winery does much less plowing: thus preserve the structure of the soil and releasing less nitrogen, which results in less swollen grapes. Small berries are more interesting than small ones because they offer a much better juice / material ratio. Second, promoting grassing with chickweed, a small grass that grows naturally and in thickness without attacking the vine. The Winery works for 50% in an organic way and for 50% in a reasoned way, particularly during the flowering period but with infinitesimal doses. They adapt the treatment doses to the leaf area. The disease pressure on only 20% of the leaf area, only 20% of the approved dose is used. Imagine what that means for product reduction! Another very important thing is the time taken to return to the vines after treatment. It is systematically calculated so that the team can work quietly again afterwards. Finally, there is one essential gesture: trimming with shears. The investment of a lot in staff in the summer. In 2017, they were able to cut 12 of the 16 hectares with a shear, that's huge!
Everything starts with indigenous yeasts. The vatting times take place between 18 and 20 days, barely 15 days for small cuvées like Chambertin. It's only doing 5 or 6 punching down. As for sulfur, the Winery uses three times less than in my Denis time. All this makes the wine “pinote” with elegance, that it is easier to drink young while being cut for aging. The perfect equation! It's adapted according to the vintage. There is not a choosing of the grain according to the wine because of the fear of getting lost in it, there is trust in the coopers for this selection work. Depending on the vintage and the year, aging lasts between 16 and 18 months.
For more information, or to purchase the Domaine Denis Mortet Wines, visit the Domaine Denis Mortet Collection.
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