The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is pure silk on the palate. The 2004 is never going to be a huge Rancia. Instead, it is the wine’s elegance and poise that stand out most. In this tasting, the 2004 comes across as a modern day 1990, even if the vintage was quite different from a climactic perspective. Sweet roses, spices and licorice are all woven together beautifully on the impossibly fine, dazzling finish. This is a wine of unbelievable harmony. Proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and longtime oenologist Franco Bernabei have elevated Sangiovese to a level of sophistication rarely seen. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034.