The 1,000 case luxury cuvee, the 2004 Aquilon, was fashioned from the winery’s oldest vines and best material. Revealing nearly off the chart ripeness, richness, and intensity, it will undoubtedly be controversial, separating traditionalists from more progressive tasters, but I loved it. It will be interesting to see how this tour de force in winemaking ages. It is the vino equivalent of a Hummer four-wheel drive vehicle.
