The 2004 Cariad, a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 8% Cabernet Franc, was made from fruit purchased from David Abreu’s vineyards, most of it coming from his St. Helena property, the Madrona Ranch. Always one of the most aromatically complex wines, the 2004 comes across as a Graves-like offering with enormous notes of scorched earth, a hot rocks sort of nose and meaty black currant and black cherry fruit. Some tannins are still left, but the wine is round, generously endowed, full-bodied and opulent with terrific complexity. Drink it over the next 10 years.
